As anyone who’s ever planned a trip here knows, there’s no shortage of beachfront resorts that dot the coastline of Mexico’s beloved Riviera Maya region, something that became evident to me as I descended into the Cancún airport at the end of a quick three-hour flight from JFK. I hadn’t been to the Caribbean side since a post-grad trip to Tulum many moons ago (for the last few years, I’ve been favoring the charming surf town of Sayulita on the Pacific coast), but that changed as soon as I had a compelling reason to return. Under any other circumstances, a new hotel opening in Riviera Maya would hardly stop a travel-obsessed fashion editor like myself in her tracks. But suffice it to say that my return to the Yucatán was hardly under normal circumstances, and after my most recent stay at the gorgeous new St. Regis Kanai, I’ve vowed to make it a more regular visit.
Opened in February of last year and ranked on Conde Nast Traveler’s 2024 Hot List, the St. Regis Kanai is certainly new by hotel standards but felt like a well-oiled machine by the time I arrived.
After an easy 45-minute drive from the Cancún airport, I arrived to the gated community of Kanai (home to neighboring EDITION and Auberge properties), and making my way into the St. Regis Kanai, the lush surroundings that enveloped me made it feel like a world away. Of course, that’s entirely by design. Set on over 600 acres of environmentally protected land, greenery stretched out for miles from every angle, making you feel like you’re in a far more remote part of the country than you are. It makes for the ultimate long weekend, one that’s a logistical walk in the park but that feels like you’re really away.
In fact, otherworldly was the word I kept coming back to throughout my stay, and I couldn’t help but draw comparisons between the resort and the set of HBO’s Westworld. It comes does to a few reasons. First, the St. Regis Kanai is entirely built on top of thick mangroves, with elevated boardwalks that stretch from the beach to the main buildings, so that the whole resort feels as though you’re floating. It doesn’t hurt that the award-winning architecture was inspired by the Mayan celestial calendar, giving the semi-circular buildings an alien feel, in the best way. Another perk of this layout makes it so that every room has an uninterrupted ocean view.
I spent the majority of my time glued to a lounger opposite one of the many long infinity pools on property and on the pristine swatch of white-sand beach that’s exclusive to the St. Regis. My companion was a copy of Miranda July’s newest novel, the gripping and semi-unhinged All Fours that came highly-recommended by all my most well-read friends.
Where to Dine
The hotel is home to two on-site restaurants and honestly, it was impossible to choose a favorite as each meal I enjoyed seemed to out-do the last in originality, flavor, and presentation. My first night, I promptly made a reservation at Toro, where renowned chef Richard Sandoval fuses Japanese and Latin influences into one harmonious menu that has earned nominations for Latin America’s Best New Hotel Restaurant and Latin America’s Best New Restaurant. The vibe is as sexy as the cuts of hamachi and tuna that dotted the dimly-lit tables with sparse but modern furnishings that make it feel grand and intimate at the same time.
Honestly, before I even dive into what I ate (which was definitely memorable), I have to discuss the mezcal cocktail I ordered, which I haven’t stopped thinking about to this day: served up with hints of mango and rosemary essence and brought to the table in a chamber of rosemary-tinged smoke that I promise was so much more than fodder for TikTok content. I’m normally not a big cocktail person (I love a crisp glass wine of white with fish), but this honestly moved me to my core and paired well with the hamachi crudo, softshell crab tacos, grilled avocado covered in corn and chimichurri, and seared fresh-caught sea bass that we ordered.
Where to Unwind
There are standard treatments you can expect to find at any hotel spa like massages and facials and the St. Regis Kanai certainly offers both of those, but there’s a unique kind of treatment on the menu that’s unlike anything else I’ve tried, and trust me, I’ve been to some pretty premier spas in New York and L.A. At the St. Regis spa, though, it’s all about the hydrotherapy treatment. On paper, I’ll admit it sounds like the urban bathhouse concepts that have popped up all over in NYC, but let me tell you, the experience was something else entirely and I’m not kidding when I say I felt reborn upon emerging.
I started by creating a custom body scrub and mask based on my skin’s needs and inspired by Mayan celestial cycles. Then it was into a private outdoor terrace where I was instructed to rotate between a marble-lined steam room to apply and rinse off the two scrubs and a cold plunge; then rotate between the cold plunge and a dry sauna, peppered with re-ups from the ice luge; and finished with a heated thermal pool. While I’ve done plenty of contrast therapy, this experience felt so personalized and intentional and it made sense to me why it took the resort over a year to curate and perfect the treatment. Hot take, but I say skip an overly expensive massage and do the hydrotherapy instead. You won’t be disappointed.
What to Experience
When south of the border, it would be a crime not to experience the finer things in Mexico, namely the country’s top exports of tequila and mezcal. Luckily, the St. Regis has a custom-curated tasting that features the best local spoils of each, plus chocolate pairings to taste with each sip. For the unaware, Mexico lends its own seal of authenticity to tequila-making, much like Italy and France do with wine, and as a longtime fan of tequila myself, trust me when I say that you can literally taste the difference between the good stuff and the kind of you can find at the store back home.
Halfway through our tasting experience, I was kicking myself for maxing out my carry-on suitcase with all the outfits I packed and made a mental note to leave some room to import a bottle or two next time. Suffice it to say, that I learned more about tequila and mezcal-making than I ever thought I would and my camera roll, now filled with images of the labels to remember for later, is a testament to how good everything tasted. One word to the wise: be sure to eat a substantial meal beforehand—it turns out that a lot of small sips really do add up.
What I Packed
My suitcase was filled with the coastal staples that I tend to pack on any beach vacation. Namely, a great raffia tote, elevated slide sandals, easy coverups, and a singular pair of classic sunglasses to wear with everything. I filled my Loewe Raffia Tote with all my essentials to carry just about everywhere from the beach to the spa and and back and my Prada Oval Symbole shades were virtually glued to my face the entire time. Since the resort didn’t have a high capacity when I went in July, the feeling was that I had the place to myself and it made the overall vibe more relaxed and casual.
Ahead, see more photos from my stay at the St. Regis Kanai, including everything I wore.
Retro swim shorts are my favorite swim trend of the year. Triangl makes the best ones that come with matching bikinis for a full look.
Heaven Mayhem
Julia Black/black
This hand-crocheted shirt was my most-worn piece on the trip. It makes for the coolest coverup.
I learned about this new-to-me brand that specializes in the most fun crochet pieces by browsing Kendall Jenner’s FWRD picks and now it’s one of my newest favorite resort wear labels.
I can’t recommend Sir’s effortless pieces enough. One of the slinky dresses or separates are always in my vacation-bound suitcase, and this time I landed on a halter mini dress that was comfortable in the high humidity.
SIR The Label
Dazed Wrap Halter Mini Dress
Matching sets make for the best swimsuit coverups, IMO. I re-wore the pants from this Zara set with flats on my flight home.
I took a quick golf cart ride over to the new EDITION Kanai right next door for dinner one night. To me, nothing quite compares to a Christopher Esber dress for a tropical vacation and wearing this rust-hued number to dine at the open-air beachfront restaurant did not disappoint.
This lace dress is easily one of my most-complimented items and the more I wear it, the more I realize just how oddly versatile the sheer lace can be.