When it comes to Black women and our hair, there is no shortage of information out there. But some of it is misguided, outdated, or downright wrong. From the age-old debate between co-washing or shampooing, to some claiming tape-ins are a great “protective style” (spoiler alert: they’re not), too many of us don’t realize what’s fact from fiction until it’s too late and we’re facing irreversible damage. Since almost half of all Black women experience some form of hair loss, we must use more discernment when it comes to who we let anywhere near our heads.
In her post, “Hair Loss and the World of Trichology: Why You Should Care if You Want to Save Your Hair,” Dr. Crystal Porter, a hair scientist and owner of Naperville, IL-based Mane Insights, a hair and consumer analysis company, first shed light on rampant fraud in Black hair care in 2016. Her insights are still relevant and definitely worth a read.
Here are four ways to better protect your crown:
Understand that trichology is not regulated in the U.S.
Trichology, the study of disorders of the hair and scalp, is not regulated in the U.S. — which means anyone on Beyoncé’s internet can claim to be a trichologist without obtaining the proper education or credentials. What’s more, the term “doctor” gets thrown around way too loosely, which means anyone depicting themselves online wearing a white coat and calling themselves “doctor” could be misleading the public about their qualifications when they are not, in fact, an actual physician—nor do they hold a Ph.D.
Speaking of post-doctorate degrees, you should also know that there is no Ph.D. curriculum in trichology offered in this country. Similarly, a “board-certified trichologist” is not a thing here, so someone proclaiming either of these should be met with plenty of side-eye. As Dr. Porter states, “There are no academic Ph.D. programs in trichology in the United States, and no recognized board certification for trichologists.”
Legitimate trichology training programs in the U.S. typically range from six months to 2 years, depending on the depth of the curriculum. Be skeptical of anyone claiming to have gained comprehensive trichology certification in weeks. “A proper trichology education should cover subjects like hair and scalp anatomy, physiology, diseases and disorders, and nutrition,” says Dr. Porter. “This level of knowledge cannot be adequately obtained in a few short weeks.”
Verify every practitioner’s educational background
Always do your due diligence and research a practitioner’s claimed credentials. Google their school or certifying organization. Does the institution actually exist, and if so, does it offer degrees or certifications in the areas this practitioner claims to have? Does the practitioner have a LinkedIn page that supports what they may be claiming on social media? If you can’t find evidence of their purported school’s legitimacy or the program’s existence, that’s a major red flag.
“Sadly, there are many hair care practitioners out there who prey on Black women,” warns Nadia S. Hughes, a specialist who treats scarring alopecias from her Hair Again studio in San Antonio, TX. “We all know that when Black women come to us when they are losing their hair, they are desperate and will pay almost anything to get their hair back.”
This behavior is not only predatory (and possibly illegal) but can also be dangerous. Trusting the wrong “expert” can lead to wasted money on ineffective products and treatments and severe damage to hair and scalp health.
Always verify a practitioner’s credentials, and don’t be afraid to ask questions about their education and experience. A reputable, properly trained hair care professional will be happy to provide you with information and put your mind at ease.
It doesn’t matter how many celebrities a person has in their feed —social media can be a misleading place. Influencers and celebrities are often paid to promote products or services, and their endorsements don’t necessarily mean that a practitioner or brand is reputable or effective—or that they are necessarily using these products or treatments themselves.
Instead, check third-party review websites like the Better Business Bureau (BBB) and Trustpilot. These platforms allow verified customers to leave detailed reviews and ratings, giving you a more honest and comprehensive picture of a business’s reputation and customer satisfaction levels. Check out Google and Yelp for their reviews.
Look for posts from users who have had verified interactions with the practitioner or product in question, and pay attention to any consistent patterns in their feedback—both positive and negative.
Be cautious when purchasing haircare products online
Don’t just go on “blind faith” when it comes to the products you put on your hair and scalp. If a practitioner or brand is not fully transparent about what’s in their formulas, or if you find it difficult to locate the ingredients in their products (often buried or nonexistent on a product page), that’s another red flag.
Additionally, don’t be lured into thinking that too-good-to-be-true before-and-after pictures (look at all this new growth in just two weeks!) are always valid. Images are often recycled on the internet, meaning anyone can use them and falsely claim they resulted from their own treatment methods and/or products. Always look for real, verifiable reviews and results from actual clients—ideally via a third-party website such as Etsy or Amazon. If something seems questionable or you can’t find evidence supporting those miracle claims, trust your gut and steer clear.
