ESSENCE Fashion House: Theophilio’s Edvin Thompson and L’Enchanteur Designers On Aesthetic Armor – Essence
At this year’s ESSENCE Fashion House, the atmosphere buzzed with anticipation as Edvin Thompson, designer and founder of Theophilio, and the intentional twin siblings behind the intentional brand L’Echanteur took the stage. Across from him sat Barkue Tubman-Zawolo, ESSENCE Venture’s Chief of Staff, ready to lead a conversation that was as much about the soul of fashion as it was about its outward expressions.
The crowd, a mix of designers, creatives, and fashion enthusiasts, settled in with quiet excitement. They knew this was more than a discussion about trends—this was about identity, narrative, and the responsibility of representing where you come from in every piece you create.
Thompson wasted no time diving into the heart of his story. “For me, fashion has always been about more than just making clothes,” he began, his voice steady but impassioned. “It’s about crafting something real, something that tells a story—not just my story, but the stories of the people I grew up with.” This is a sentiment shared by Thompson’s co-panelists, who spoke to their heritage origins imbued in the threads of their designs. Dynasty and Soull Ogun, the visionary twin sisters behind L’Enchanteur, have cultivated a brand ethos that is as layered and mystical as the designs they create.
As 2024 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists, their work seamlessly fuses cultural memory with forward-thinking artistry, embodying a dialogue between their Nigerian-American heritage and an expansive spiritual imagination. L’Enchanteur is more than a fashion brand—it is a cultural archive, where each piece serves as a tribute to the twin’s Yoruba roots and their ongoing exploration of African diasporic identity.
The audience nodded as Thompson and the Ogun twins articulated the challenges to maintain an honored brand narrative despite pressures to compress the dimension behind Black artistry. All present artists’ collections reflect a deep reverence for storytelling, mythology, and ancestral wisdom, with intricate jewelry, textiles, and garments that echo the sacred rituals and vibrant traditions of their lineage.
Theophilio, a brand born from Thompson’s Jamaican roots, has become known for its fearless blending of Caribbean culture with global fashion sensibilities. It’s a celebration of color, texture, and movement—reflecting the energy of a dancehall or the freedom of the Jamaican coastline. But as Thompson explained, it’s also a responsibility. “When I’m designing, it’s never separated from my culture. They’re always in conversation with one another.”
Throughout the conversation, Tubman guided Thompson through his reflections on navigating the high-pressure world of fashion. He spoke about being named CFDA’s Emerging Designer of the Year in 2021, acknowledging the honor but quickly grounding it in his commitment to authenticity. Helping others like himself feel seen, as he noted, remains the goal even outside of industry approval. This element bonded the co-panelists, who have tirelessly crafted a customer-facing vision of their brand that emphasizes their authentic musings. By embracing symbolism and reimagining historical iconography, the Ogun sisters imbue their work with a soulful connectivity that transcends trends. L’Enchanteur’s praxis is one of reclamation, offering designs that speak to both the past and future, grounded in a belief that fashion can be a vessel for healing, empowerment, and cultural preservation.
