Designer Spotlight: With Lumère, Mounir Sakho Isn’t Creating Clothes For Clicks – Essence

At just 23, New York-based designer Mounir Sakho has garnered a loyal following for his emerging brand Lumère. He recently released his first full collection that has the fashion world excited for more. Initially launching in 2019, Lumère’s story began uniquely.

As a curious child, Sakho flipped through his mother’s African textile books. A fabric called ‘Lumière’ caught his attention prompting him to ask his mother what it meant. He recalls her replying with admiration in her eyes and exclaiming that this was perfect for him. And the name of his brand was born. The designer’s first name translates to “light” and so does the French word lumière. He feels that his mother gave him his brand name, this level of purpose is compelling for him, especially since he wouldn’t be here physically without her. 

Sakho shares that he decided to name his brand Lumère as an homage to his mother–he adds that it also translates to “my mother.” He notes that the brand name remains close to the original word that sparked his entrepreneurial journey. 

The designer launched his brand as an expression of his perspective as a first-generation American with roots in Guinea. West African and American worlds blend often and interest through his works in his eyes. Living on the Upper East Side of New York, he often sees an array of styles from streetwear to traditional African threads. The designer resonated deeply with the diverse styles, sophistication, and innovation that reside within those influences. “I wanted to spotlight [my] heritage in a fresh way and tell a new story,” he shared.

Mounir credits his knack for design to YouTube which served as an immersive class for him. He enmeshed himself with the platform and learned much of the capabilities he needed to thrive as a designer through the digital site. He didn’t study design in a formal setting but that didn’t stop him from absorbing information and learning through his family’s rich design lineage.

“Fashion is in my DNA,” he shared matter-of-factly. He expressed that his great-grandmother was a highly respected textile designer in Guinea, so his affinity for garments and worthwhile designs is a longstanding genetic predisposition. Sakho also learned through trial and error.

Lumère’s ethos is rooted in the balanced dance between classic and contemporary twists. He designs timeless, yet forward-thinking pieces featuring the palm red accents and “Ètoile motif” to showcase a restorative take on modern fashion. His teenage self is always in mind when he’s creating, giving the designer space to explore, grow, and experiment. He is designing for those looking for a safe space to evolve while expressing themselves. “Lumère is an amalgamation of all of the influences that have made me who I am; a skater, nerd, artist, anime lover, proud New Yorker. I want the Lumère world to be a place where all these things, regardless of how different they are, can find common ground and exist in harmony.” Sakho is building a community that is inclusive, culturally rich, and values creativity, diversity, and modernity all while honoring the deep-rooted cultural legacies that shaped him growing up.

Thus far, his favorite creation has been his embroidered calf leather moto jacket, seen on British singer Zayn Malik recently on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon. After attaining this feat, Mounir realized what a milestone his young brand had accomplished. The jacket is an example of how he marries modern nuanced details with classic silhouettes. Other pieces in the brand’s latest collection feature a star motif throughout them. Structured jackets, two-toned pants, contrast stitching, and velour finishes are all featured in this debut collection too.

“I still have so much room to grow, but I’ve learned that the wisdom gained over time equips you with the tools to become your best self. Each challenge I faced while creating this collection has shaped me, reminding me that growth often comes from discomfort,” he explained. When reflecting on how far he’s come as a designer he says he would tell his younger self to embrace patience. The designer says that pursuing dreams can make waiting feel agonizing, especially when one is eager to reach a certain level of success. “The slow moments are invaluable, they teach you about yourself and deepen your understanding of your mission,” he shared. While his latest collection is available for pre-order–at the moment he is working on his next collection, and building upon a momentum that feels electric.

The designer’s dream for Lumère is for it be to be globally recognized for its innovation. He aspires to be listed alongside top fashion designers who are pushing boundaries and introducing moving perspectives within an industry that often feels stagnant due to trends. Sakho is solely focusing on creating clothing that tells a compelling story, much like wearable art.