A trip to Grenada is always a fun time for me. It’s even more exciting to be on the island during the carnival season, with all the revelry, fetes, concerts, boat rides, and road marches.
Whenever I visit the Spice Isle, in between chilling on idyllic beaches and hunting down ripe mangoes, I always make time to stop in at Belmont Estate.
Nestled in the hills of St. Patrick’s parish, about an hour from the capital of St. George’s, this historic 17th-century plantation is a fully functional estate where sustainable farming practices yield fresh, healthy, organic produce.
Belmont offers an unforgettable immersive experience, including a tree-to-bar chocolate tour that allows me to get up close and personal with my favorite confection. During the walking tour, visitors learn about the chocolate-making process—from picking the cocoa pods to drying the cocoa beans to making the bars and much more. Sampling unique blends of high-quality sweet treats in the chocolate factory makes for a delicious outing.
The tree-to-bar tour takes about four hours, and you need to book at least a day in advance. Reservations are preferred but not required for the classic tour, which lasts about an hour and includes meeting the farm animals. That’s a perfect jaunt if you’re traveling with young ones.
If you’re not up for a walking tour after all that partying and just want to eat some good food, brunch or lunch at Belmont Estate’s restaurant is an excellent option. Soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the scenery in the airy, rustic patio dining area while chowing down on mouthwatering island fare infused with native spices. The menu changes daily, so you never know what you’re going to get in the prix-fixe three-course meals they offer.
On my most recent visit, I couldn’t decide between the tasty callaloo soup or the flavorful papaya soup for my appetizer—but getting fresh-from-the-oven onion rolls was a no-brainer. I feasted on plantation salad (don’t get me started on the nutmeg dressing!), moringa and tomato salad, saffron herb rice, cinnamon baked chicken, grilled fish and coo coo, a Caribbean cornmeal dish similar to polenta. Along with my scrumptious meal, I had a refreshing Nutmeg Splash drink. Any attempt to resist the decadent chocolate cake paired with yummy cinnamon ice cream for dessert would have been futile, so I didn’t even try. The live band playing everything from reggae to soca to jazz to R&B added to the good vibes.
Perhaps the thing I appreciate most about Belmont Estate is the irony of a former plantation, with its history of colonial oppression, now being owned and operated by a woman of color.
Entrepreneur and founder Shadel Nyack Compton, a graduate of Howard and Georgetown universities, is listed on the estate’s website as “legacy bearer.” That’s a title she wears with pride.
“I am grateful for this position of trust and profound responsibility handed to me by my ancestors. I honor and advance the rich heritage and traditions established by them,” she tells me. Her family has owned the property for 80 years.
Continuing the standards and customs of her Grenadian forebears is important to Nyack Compton. “By preserving our history, supporting local initiatives, and acting as a cultural ambassador, I aim to secure a prosperous future for Belmont Estate and the community it serves,” she says.
The estate’s farm-to-table initiative is intentional and not just an attempt to be trendy. Says Nyack Compton: “We’re proud to offer authentic Grenadian food on our menu. By highlighting the freshest ingredients from our farm and supporting local farmers and fishermen, we ensure every meal is a true taste of our vibrant community.” She notes that they have been certified organic since 2002.
While the property did sustain some damage during the passage of Hurricane Beryl, which swept through the Caribbean in July, Nyack Compton remains positive. “Despite the recent hurricane that destroyed many of our trees, we are dedicated to replanting, knowing that the fruits of our labor will be enjoyed by our children and their children.”
She promises something special is in the works to commemorate the 80th anniversary of her family taking ownership of the property. The festivities are set to take place December 14-22, so follow them on Instagram (@belmontestate) for updates.
Whether you want to learn more about Grenadian culture, indulge your sweet tooth or dine on a delectable three-course meal, you can’t go wrong heading to Belmont Estate.
For more on Belmont Estate, visit belmontestategrenada.com, and on Grenada Spicemas Carnival, see spicemasgrenada.com.
