The fragrance industry is a saturated market, and while it’s brilliant there’s so much choice, it can feel overwhelming. In fact, even if you dedicated your entire life to it (and, as a beauty editor, I do), you’d never be able to smell every perfume out there. Through my job, I have learned one thing—the best advice often comes from the real experts.
So, in a bid to help establish what the world’s best perfumes are, I wanted to speak with some of the most respected perfumers out there and pick their brains on the scents they adore most. Because if it’s good enough for some of the most esteemed noses in the industry, it’s got to be worth a try, right?
Along with their own proudest creation, I asked 11 perfumes for their personal favourite creations and the fragrances they wish they had made themselves From floral perfumes to some of the most classic scents ever, this is perhaps the most reliable perfume edit the world has ever seen.
1. Ruth Mastenbroek, Master Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: My Signature fragrance will always hold a special place in my heart because it was the first fragrance I launched under my own brand. However, I recently created a perfume with my son, Nic, who I have trained to become a perfumer for the last six or seven years. Our new fragrance, London Dusk, blends some of our favourite ingredients and I loved creating this together; I am proud of both the creation and our ability to work together.
The perfume I wish I had created: The first fragrance I fell in love with was Mitsouko by Guerlain; it was an iconic fragrance and spoke to the woman I wanted to be. With its artful use of peach to complement the floral rose and jasmine, there was something magical about Mitsouko and part of me wishes I could have been the one to create this.
2. Nic Mastenbroek, Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: For me I would have to say London Dusk. It was like getting to create my ideal fragrance with Ruth to guide and steer the way, and I think the result is amazing. London Dusk is the perfect combination of mellow but with personality, which I think reflects me, too.
The perfume I wish I had created: A fragrance I grew up in love with was L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake; I loved the freshness but there was a rugged aromatic texture and woody depth that I adored (and still do). It has certainly inspired me to create a legendary ‘fresh’ fragrance—I’ve been working on this for the last two years, so watch this space!
Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme Eau de Toilette
3. Stina Seger, Founder and Creative Director, Bibbi
My proudest creation as a perfumer: It’s hard to pick a favourite creation because each one means so much to me. They all come from such a deep, personal place of inspiration, and just like your own children, you simply can’t choose. That said, I have loved watching the reactions to Ghost of Tom and Swimming Pool, which have quickly gained a cult following simply by word of mouth.
The perfume I wish I had created: Even though it might be a bit expected, I adore Chanel No5. For me, it’s a masterpiece—utterly timeless and iconic. It’s the little black dress of fragrances, and what’s remarkable is that it continues to remain relevant and elegant. I describe it as time travel in a bottle, because it conjures up a sense of sharing a connection with old Hollywood movies stars. There’s something truly magical about that.
Bibbi Ghost of Tom Eau de Parfum
4. Aurélien Guichard, 7th generation perfumer & Co-Founder of Matiere Premiere
My proudest creation as a perfumer: My proudest fragrance creation has to be Radical Rose for Matiere Premiere. It was a dream come true to use the rose centifolia flowers that are grown on my family’s estate in Grasse to create a fragrance for my own brand.
The perfume I wish I had created: There are many fragrances that I wish I had created; some of my favourites are Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey and Le Labo Santal 33.
Matiere Premiere Radical Rose Eau de Parfum
Le Labo Santal 33 Eau De Parfum
5. Nicholas Bonneville, Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: I loved creating LBTY Ianthe Oud because it allowed me to immerse myself in the heritage of Liberty. Liberty is renowned for its floral prints, which are distinctive for being visible on both sides of the fabric. Inspired by this, I adapted my creative process to reflect the same principle, aiming to explore the dual aspects of the violet. Deeply rooted in English culture, the violet is both very green and vegetal, yet also dark and leathery. This fragrance has a strong personality and striking contrasts, providing a unique opportunity to delve into the unisex facets of violet.
The perfume I wish I had created: Dior Homme. It is an iris for men that embodies elegance and sensuality.
LBTY Ianthe Oud Eau de Parfum
Dior Homme Eau de Toilette
6. Arnaud Poulain, Founder and Perfumer at Les Eaux Primordiales
My proudest creation as a perfumer: Santal Superfluide is my favourite creation because it’s the most complex, elegant and balanced perfume from Les Eaux Primordiales.
The perfume I wish I had created: A perfume I wish I’d created is Musc Ravageur (the old version) from Frederic Malle, because it’s vintage and modern at the same time. Sweet, classic and visionary.
Les Eaux Primordiales Santal Superfluide
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur
7. Mark Constantine OBE, Lush CEO, Co-founder and in-house Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: I was inspired to create Lush Vegan Leather Jacket by a line in the song Gunga Din by The Byrds. It has notes of clove, tonka and tobacco. It made me think that as a vegetarian company, many of us don’t wear real leather, and this inspired me to make a leather-inspired, 100% vegan fragrance.
The perfume I wish I had created: I come from a family of perfumers. My son Simon (also a perfumer) had an idea for a perfume called Breath of God where the doors of a church or temple open and the air that comes out is the breath of God. Simon then went travelling, and I thought it was a lovely idea for a perfume and I really wanted to do it. Anyway, I didn’t do the perfume and Simon returned and then created it, and it received a 5 star review from Luca Turin!
Lush Vegan Leather Jacket
8. Jacques Chabert, Master Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: 23 years after its launch, I am still pretty fond of Molton Brown Re-charge Black Pepper. I enjoy using it and rediscovering its many facets, fresh on top and warm in the dry down. It is also rather comforting knowing I am not the only one!
The perfume I wish I had created: I tend to like classics that stand the test of time, such as Guerlain Shalimar, Aramis or (relatively) more recently, Fahrenheit. But some, now disappeared, like Grey Flannel or Cabochard, remain a model of creativity to me.
Re-charge Black Pepper Eau de Parfum
Guerlain Shalimar Eau De Parfum
9. Carla Chabert, Senior Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: I am genuinely happy with the outcome of Molton Brown Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel, whose starting point was a masculine marine but was developed through the prism of the colour blue: fresh, tonic, and vibrant, generating loyal consumers over time.
The perfume I wish I had created: There are so many beautiful fragrances out in the world! Old and new: I love the elegant fruity chypre Mistouko by Guerlain that launched after WW1 and am fascinated by the nagarmotha trail left by Santal 33 of Le Labo and many more!
Molton Brown Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel Eau de Parfum
Guerlain Les Légendaires Mitsouko Eau De Parfum
10. Hamid Merati-Kashani, Founder of Fabbrica Della Musa and Perfumer
My proudest creation as a perfumer: My favourite fragrance is Dolcetto Romano from Fabbrica Della Musa because I absolutely love the combination of patchouli and caramel. The vision behind this fragrance was to craft a deeply addictive scent that lingers in memory and draws compliments. I blended these two ingredients to create a unique unisex caramelised patchouli fragrance.
The top, middle, and base notes are beautifully balanced and the scent’s projection and longevity are exceptional, which is vital for today’s discerning consumers who truly understand and appreciate fragrances. I am always inspired to create, and I create to inspire. This scent reminds me of enjoying a lovely aperitivo in Italy, as the sun sets and the warm evening breeze lingers—a perfect moment of serenity and beauty.
The perfume I wish I had created: Terre d’Hermès is one of my favourite fragrances because it features both patchouli and incense. I love how the earthy depth of patchouli blends seamlessly with the smokiness, creating a beautifully balanced scent. Each ingredient interacts uniquely with the others, so it’s crucial to achieve the perfect harmony between all the elements in the formulation.
Fabrica Della Musa Dolcetto Romano Eau de Parfum
11. Gabriella Chelariu, Principal Perfumer at DSM-FIRMENICH
My proudest creation as a perfumer: Ravaged Rose for AllSaints, because it is a modern take on rose. Rose is such a legendary flower but at the same time it can be polarising because of people’s preconceptions, thinking that it is mostly feminine. Ravaged Rose by AllSaints has intense woodiness with pepper, ivy green and citrus that breaks the rose in multiple facets and the result is dynamic, daring and luminous with just enough grit to make you want to smell it again and again.
Sometimes we love the things that are most challenging. During the creation of Ravaged Rose, I did a lot of modifications to balance the rose, and although it remains the hero ingredient, the final result is a fragrance that has hard edges, some rough textures and spans across gender lines and can be embraced by all.
The perfume I wish I had created: One of my favourite scents is Dolce and Gabbana Light Blue by master perfumer, Olivier Cresp. It brought a new daring woody signature in a feminine fragrance. The overdose of cedar, amber woods and lemon could easily fall in a masculine territory, but the way these notes were balanced with floral, apple and musky notes was brilliant and resulted in a fragrance with a highly memorable signature that was very innovative and addictive. In wear, it has long-lasting trail and a strong identify. It created a new trend in perfumery and inspired numerous other creations subsequently.
All Saints Ravaged Rose Eau de Parfum
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau de Toilette
